Back to the Beginning
Born and raised in Indonesia, designer Thesia Yomalita set out to create a brand her that country would be proud of. Semula, Indonesian for “back to the beginning”, celebrates the natural materials, ancient craft, and artisanal skill of the country that inspired her love of slow fashion.
“The fashion industry is so saturated. It’s important to have a unique perspective when starting a brand. For me, it’s all about where I come from,” Thesia said of her commitment to uplifting Indonesian design through Semula. From handwoven design processes to naturally derived fibers, each and every aspect of Semula’s supply chain is carefully considered.
Thesia works with a range of natural fibers, including modal (a fabric made from beech tree pulp), 100% cotton and a mix of deadstock fabrics. Many of the fabrics are then naturally dyed, an ancient practice that is growing increasingly detrimental to the health of Indonesia’s eco-system, as chemical dyes have been destroying the country’s soil and water.
Once the fabric has been prepared, many of the pieces are then handwoven using the ancient technique of tenun. While the designs and styles differ from region to region, tenun is a respected design practice across all of Indonesia. “I want to focus on garments that spotlight Indonesian design,” Thesia explained, “I want to show how these pieces are made and highlight the people behind it.”
Inspired by the crafts(wo)manship of Indonesia, Thesia is committed to highlighting the true artisanal craft behind Semula’s pieces.
She works with local factories that are owned and operated by Balinese families. “The artisans have flexible hours and they can choose when they’d like to work. For our crochet pieces, the artisans work in their own homes.” Thesia explained of the working conditions. This flexibility may seem novel, but is crucial to Thesia’s decision to produce solely in Indonesia, thus creating economic opportunities for the craftswomen of her country.
While her design process pays homage to her roots, her design style is far more modern. From mini skirts to halter tops, Semula is best known for their elevated essentials that are both sustainable and chic. “I try to design versatile pieces that you will want to wear forever,” Thesia said of her commitment to designing timeless pieces made to last. Beyond an ethical supply chain, Thesia’s approach to sustainability includes designing pieces that can be worn and reworn for years to come. Striking that balance, between celebrating the ancient craft techniques of her country, while designing with the modern day shopper in mind, is no simple feat, and one that Semula works tirelessly to achieve.
Building a small brand, while prioritizing environmental sustainability and artisanal craft, is an endless struggle towards balance. From managing inventory to controlling overhead costs, Thesia is constantly facing new challenges, the largest of which is shifting people’s consumption habits. “We’ve forgotten that garments take time to make, they don’t just magically appear,” Thesia explained. While her pieces may take longer to be produced than some are used to, the Semula customer is willing to wait. “My customers understand that these pieces are art,” Thesia noted.
Celebrating the true beauty of Indonesia in a modern and authentic way hasn’t been easy, but it is what makes Semula so special.